A huge organ, our skin covers a surface area of some two square meters. “The skin is both a fascinating and complex organ,” summarizes Lancôme’s international scientific director, Annie Black, a Quebec researcher who works in the brand’s laboratories in France. “The most important thing is to ensure the health of its barrier function.” How? Among other things, by taking care of our skin microbiota, or, in other words, the good bacteria naturally found on the skin.
In this sense, the slightest microbial imbalance can cause skin problems, science tells us. It could even be one of the causes of eczema, recalls American doctor and journalist James Hamblin in Clean: The New Science of Skin , an essay published in 2020 that stands out in our antiseptic era. “We are now doing cutting-edge research on the subject,” confirms Annie Black.
“Of course, we don’t take care of our skin the same way we take care of a kidney or a heart, but as with most things, it’s all about balance and moderation,” adds Mireille Vega, creator of the Quebec brand V*GAM.
No more harsh products. To protect skin microbes, we must be gentle, regardless of our skin type. The biochemist therefore relies first and foremost on a simplified facial care routine, far from the ten-step Korean rituals. In the morning, a simple rinse with water is usually enough.”
Dermatological prescription
Geneviève Thérien, a dermatologist at CHUL, also prescribes a minimalist skincare regimen. “It’s important to wash your skin and face once a day with a gentle, soap-free cleanser with a more acidic pH,” she explains. “Using this type of cleanser preserves the lipid layer that serves as food for microorganisms.”
Moisturizer, on the other hand, isn’t always essential, Dr. Thérien qualifies . “If our skin feels tight, it’s a sign that we need it.” Which product should you choose? One thing is certain, she says, just because a cream is expensive doesn’t mean it’s better than another. “There are creams that are more interesting than others for moisturizing the skin, for example, those that contain ceramides or hyaluronic acid. After that, it’s a question of taste and texture. often tell my patients: try several samples and choose the one you prefer and that best suits your budget and values.”
Last but not least: sunscreen. Here again, there are plenty of options. “Both organic [mineral] and inorganic [chemical] sunscreens are equally effective,” she says. “The important thing is to use them every day, even in winter.”
It’s not more complicated. The rest—masks, serums, and all that ? “It’s all candy,” says Mireille Vega. “We make a mask for the experience. Here, we’re no longer talking about functional care, but more about pleasure.